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Even though I’m home now, and very, very tired, I have a lot left of my Paris trip to post… So I’ll continue below!

Day Four: woke up very late. Didn’t get out of the hotel room till after 2 PM. Whoops! Oh well, it all works out in the end, right? Again headed up to the Ile-de-la-Cite to visit the Notre Dame Cathedral. Made the tactical error of visiting the Cathedral itself first – it was not obvious to me that the entrance to the Towers and the entrance to the Crypt, both of which close at a certain hour of day, are not actually inside the Cathedral. To get to the Towers, when you are facing the Cathedral on the Parvis, walk to the left side of the Cathedral, around the corner. To get to the Crypt, when you are facing the Cathedral on the Parvis, turn around and walk back to the far edge of the Parvis – the Crypt entrance is way over there. The reason this was a tactical error was because the Cathedral itself does not have a closing time, so when pressed for time and wanting to see everything, one should really start with either the Towers or the Crypt. Learn from my mistake!

In any event, the Cathedral was still quite spectacular. I did feel a wee bit like I was trespassing – after all, this is an important place of Catholic worship, and I was not there to worship, and I am not Catholic. I wandered through, admiring all the Gothic architecture and stained glass and paintings, enjoying the mesmerizing warm glow of the candles lit for prayers, and reflecting on the generally peaceful and safe atmosphere inside the Cathedral, wondering if the worshippers felt like we tourists were intruding on them. At some point, we must have, because a voice came over the public address system, shushing us and asking for silence. The ambient noise level dropped off pretty quickly. I also took a cruise through the Treasury, which is inside the Cathedral, and though it was interesting to see the religious artifacts and robes, they made me pay three euros to see it.

After the Cathedral, I had a wonderful takeaway crepe while waiting in line for the Towers – actually, the lineup for the Towers was discovered in the hunt for food. The crepe was splashed liberally with Grand Marnier, then sprinkled with sugar, then folded up into a delicious little bundle for me to chow down on. Very tasty stuff. Then came my workout of the day. Climbing. Those. Stairs. I wasn’t surprised that there was no elevator or lifting device inside the Towers – after all, they were built back in 1165, long before elevators were a blink of imagination, never mind plausible reality. A sign outside the Towers entrance warned that this was not for individuals with cardiac conditions, nor was it for pregnant women. I am not either of those, but I’m also not exactly in tip top shape either – my level of physical activity is pretty pathetic. I started to worry about the embarrassment of collapsing in the stairway, of having to be hauled away in an ambulance. When I found the Tower lineup, there was an ambulance there. I didn’t get to see anyone being carried inside it or anything, and when it left it didn’t have its sirens blaring and lights flashing, but still. I was pretty nervous when I stepped up to the admissions wicket, flashed my Paris Museum Pass, and started hiking up the stairs.

It was pretty intense – stone steps spiraling tightly upward, ever upward. Thankfully, they’ve organized your visit to the Towers in such a way that you do not climb all 400 steps at once – you go up about 100, then land in a gift shop where they force you to take a bit of a rest – there’s stuff to read about Victor Hugo, and a spiral stairwell that a nearby sign informs you leads to Esmeralda’s cell – you don’t get to see the actual cell, but you see the stairway that leads to it. Then you get herded back into the staircase, spiraling up and up, probably about 200 steps – I didn’t count – and land on the walkway that goes around the outside of the Towers and connects the two to each other. It offers up a pretty spectacular view. From here, you can re-enter one of the bell towers to take a look at the huge bell – walk up a few flights of wooden stairs, trying not to think of how old those stairs are. Yes, they have probably been repaired and replaced and refurbished, but still. They creak and groan as you walk on them, as wooden floorboards are prone to do, and you can’t help but remember the age of the building and wonder at the structural integrity of this non-stone bit. Then, up another spiral staircase – again, probably about 100 steps – up to the very top of one of the towers, which offers amazing views of Paris in all directions. Back down the stairs – all of them – and you’re done!

Amazingly, I made it up the stairs without major distress – sure, my heart was pounding in my chest after the biggest stretch, and at the end of the visit my legs felt a wee bit rubbery and I didn’t even want to think about going up any more stairs ever again in my life, but I did not collapse, and perhaps more impressively, I did not have to stop to take a rest either. Now, that’s not to say that I powered my way through all sets nonstop – I’m sure, especially in the longest stretch, that I did stop here and there for a bit, not because I feared I might lose consciousness, but because the line of visitors had stopped, because someone further up had stopped and no one could pass in the tightly coiled stairway. So while I may not be the most physically fit person in the world, I’m not the least either. Hooray!

After finishing up the Towers, it was clear that there wouldn’t be time to visit the Crypt as well – their ticketing office closes half an hour before actual closing time, and by the time I got there it was already closed. So another search for food was mounted, resulting in me ending up in a little cafe just down the street from Notre Dame, dining on French onion soup, escargots, and fries. The day was finished off with a trip back to the Arc de Triomphe, with my Paris Museum Pass in hand, to go up to the top to watch the sun set over the Champs Elysees and see some of the lights come on for night. Remember how I was done with steps after my Notre Dame visit? You guessed it – the Arc de Triomphe again requires visitors to climb steps to reach the top, 275 of them. It was a nice view, though….

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