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Anyways, I’m getting near the end of my Paris trip, so I’ll continue on!!!
Day Seven: Friday. Getting down to the wire here – only two days left to actually do stuff in Paris! I had four things left on my list of things I want to see/do in Paris: Versailles, the Eiffel Tower, the Crypt at Notre Dame, and the Catacombs. Since Versailles is outside of Paris, I decided to lump the three in-the-city things together for one day, and handle Versailles on the other day. And as a just-in-case-things-take-more-time-than-I-think-they-will measure, I decided to do the city stuff first.

So first stop, the Catacombs. Upon emerging from the Denfert-Rochereau metro station, I discover a line up of visitors waiting to enter. A long line up. It stretches around the block! I make my way to the end, then see a bakery across the street and hop over there to get myself a baguette to munch while I wait. Unfortunately for me, it wasn’t an artisan baguette, but it was still pretty good since it was fresh. Not so fresh that it was still warm, but all in all I was still happy with it.

The line crawled along. I finished my baguette. I still wasn’t inside. I looked at my watch nervously, wondering if I’d make it in before they shut down the ticket sales at 4 PM, and wondering if I’d make it to the Crypt before they shut down their ticket sales at 5:30 PM. After shuffling along in that line for about two hours, I finally got inside the gate. Down a tightly spiraled staircase, into the dark underworld caverns of the Catacombs.

The Catacombs are a surreal place – a huge network of tunnels and chambers, leftover from former quarries. They’ve run electricity through the tunnels used for the tour, so that lights could be installed to light visitors’ way. There’s far more tunnel than what you see in your visit, and it’s very easy to get lost in the maze, so the tour is set to follow a specific path, and all other potential turns off this path have been gated off. You can see that it is possible to go that way, if you have the key to the gate. Informative little signs tell you about the various markings that people used to orient themselves underground to avoid getting lost, and the bell-shaped chambers that are the point of origin of cave-ins. That one was great – you’re standing in one of these chambers reading a sign telling you that this is where cave-ins start. The sign then goes on to reassure the visitor that the chamber has since been reinforced with concrete, but I was pretty keen to get out of there promptly.

The single most interesting feature of the Catacombs, though, was the ossuary. Back in the 1700s, the citizens of Paris started getting sick. It was determined that the cause was contamination of the water supply. The source of the contamination? The city’s many cemeteries. The solution? Empty the cemeteries. The remains were exhumed and then stashed away in the Catacombs. At first, it was a big jumbly mess, but then an engineer went through and arranged the bones in a more visually pleasing sort of way. So now, you walk through several chambers that are set up so that you have the impression that you are walking through a corridor of bone – the walls are stacks of femurs with rows of skulls running across them.

I’m very glad I got to see the Catacombs. It was neat descending into the tunnels, then trekking through the tunnels, then passing through the ossuary. At the same time, it was creepy. You’re underground, if you’re in the ossuary, you’re surrounded by human bones, otherwise you’re reading signs about the structural origin of a cave-in, or reading about people who worked in the Catacombs who died during cave-ins, possibly reflecting on the fact that there is a metro station not very far away, which means trains go rumbling through underground at least twice every five minutes – one in each direction, and the Denfert-Rochereau station is a two-line station, with RER trains too, so there should be lots of underground rail traffic there. The whole time I was down there, I could practically feel the weight of Paris pressing down on me. It didn’t make me freak out, and I wouldn’t describe my experience down there as being upsetting, or even really scary. I was a touch nervous the whole time though. Especially in the ossuary. I’d look at those skulls and think that if things went really badly, mine could be added to the pile, just another anonymous skull. Except that mine wouldn’t be exactly like the ones down there – I’m not of European descent, so my skeleton will have some non-European features to it. Not that I have horns or anything weird like that. I’m just certain that a skilled forensic anthropologist – perhaps Dr. Temperance Brennan – would be able to pick mine out of the skull lineup.

As much as I enjoyed the chance to wander through the Catacombs, I was still quite glad to reemerge into the sunshine. There was more good news to be had – it was early enough for me to get to the Crypt before closing!! I’ll continue with the rest of the day tomorrow…

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