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In the meantime….
Day Five: the Louvre day, strategically chosen because the Louvre is open late on Wednesdays – they don’t kick you out until 9 PM, which means one doesn’t need to get there right when the doors open to have a nice long stretch to admire the collection. This is good for me, since I am not one who is skilled when it comes to early starts. I think I managed to get myself to the museum by 2 PM, and since I had the Paris Museum Pass, I could bypass the lines and pretty well waltz right in – well, after clearing security. I would have to pay extra to see the temporary exhibit, Les Portes du Ciel, which was all ancient Egyptian stuff, and I would have liked to, but I delayed buying the ticket in favour of checking out the permanent collection first, and ended up not having time for the additional exhibit. As it turned out, I didn’t have time for the entire permanent collection either!

I headed in with some priorities – I wanted to see the more popularly known items first, then move on to contemplate the others in the collection. In all honesty, I’ve never been someone who really appreciates fine art. I mean, I know that there are things I like, and things I don’t like, but I’ve had a tough time understanding how someone can sit in front of a painting for more than five seconds ‘appreciating’ it. One of my uncles likes to do this. He can sit and admire a single painting for what seems to me to be a ludicrously long time. Knowing this about myself, I figured six hours would be plenty of time for someone like me to cruise through the Louvre’s entire collection.

That being said, the first priority piece I found was the Venus de Milo. It wasn’t in its usual gallery, which was being renovated, and so it was placed in a sort of hallway. It was a large hallway – the Louvre was once a palace, so everything has grandeur to it – and it was all by itself, with a cluster of admirers around it. I looked at it, and read the little information blurb about it, and looked at it some more. I did the same thing when I found Victory, while following the signs to the Mona Lisa. There was a crowd around the Mona Lisa. Still, I managed to get as close as I could – they had a railing set up to prevent visitors from getting too close, probably for greater equity in picture taking and viewing, because the painting itself was inside a glass enclosure, so it’s not as though someone could accidentally get bumped into it and damage it. It’s not a particularly large painting, but I stayed and looked at it for a rather long while for me. I examined it for all the details I’ve heard about it – the offset of the background landscape on the two sides, the lack of eyebrows, the enigmatic smile.

Then, I backtracked a bit, remembering another Da Vinci work that calls the Louvre home – Madonna on the Rocks. I found it, and found myself a place near the front of the small crowd – actually it was a tour group – and contemplated it for some time. I actually really like this one. The Mona Lisa is nice, but Madonna on the Rocks I actually like. The people depicted seemed to have a glow to them – for all I know, it was simply good lighting, but I stared at this painting for several minutes, and I could have stayed longer, but there was still so much to see. After tracking back to the Mona Lisa room to take a peek at the security measures to see if the novel had been accurate – it was – I worked my way through a large chunk of the Louvre’s permanent collection of paintings. Not all of them, but a pretty substantial amount, I hope. Then suddenly, it was time for me to get some food, so I found a food court just off the main lobby area and had a decent vegetable sandwich, then worked my way through the Louvre’s permanent collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts before the museum closed. As I exited the museum, I saw the inverted crystal pyramid with the marble pyramid beneath it, and then outside I saw the two crystal pyramids that jut up in the former palace courtyard…

All in all, it was a pretty worthwhile day!!

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